Ten years ago, the culinary situation in Bucharest was grim. Locals could rarely find decent eats at a restaurant. Tourists gritted their teeth on faceless hotel fare. Not the case anymore.

Taverna Sarbului is where classic Romanian dishes such vinete, the national pureed eggplant, are done with a delicious light hand inside what looks like a beautiful hunting lodge. Being located in Herastrau Park, away from the traffic madness, makes Taverna even more pleasant.

Back in exhausting/exciting downtown, a must is Caru' cu Bere a beer hall old enough to have hosted Romanian royalty, the Romanian Communist moguls, and now just ordinary mortals relishing ambiance, old furniture, and stained glass. It's utterly cool. This stop features traditional Romanian fare, not top gourmet but with extremely kind prices: mamaliga , mititei and stuffed cabbage, all served for just a few dollars each. The menu is so extensive it's best to come with a group.

If you're lucky enough to stay in the area surrounding Calei Victorie, you will no doubt either run into, or be directed to, French Bakery for breakfast, and La Mama for lunch.

French Bakery, a small chain with several locations around the city, offers freshly baked croissants, brioches and quiches; the coffee of choice is Illy the best we tasted in Bucharest. Their adjacent restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner. Though on the pricier side, you can find delicious steak frites and onion soup actually resembling real Parisian fare.

La Mama is a neighborhood magnet serving up a wide range of salads, omelets, and traditional dishes. You can sit outside on their patio and watch Bucharest life walk by.

One must mention the exploding nightlife scene. It's impossible to name them all, as new ones seem to open weekly. A new club worth a mention is Pacha, Bucharest's first mega-club, an off-shoot of a club in Ibiza. Even if it's not entirely your scene, it's worth stopping by to spend a night watching modern day Romanian hipsters who party hard while downing expensive drinks. B-7, B-dul Libertati